Garden planning

This is more or less what my gardening book says. Your reference date is the average or expected date of the last spring frost in your area.

Six to eight weeks before:
* spinach
* turnips

Four to six weeks before:
* broccoli seedlings 4″ or so high (next year, start seeds in Feb.) – need 18″ all around
* cabbage seedlings (start seeds in mid-Feb.) – need 18″ all around
* lettuce seedlings (continue setting out every couple of weeks or plant seeds)
* onions (sets, seedlings, or seed)
* leeks (sets, seedlings, or seed). Can sow seeds now in a patch, then transplant to trenched rows when 4″ high
* peas
* potatoes (if you want to bother; they take a lot of room)

In a small plot, I’d bother only with peas and spinach.  🙂

Two to four weeks before:
* beets carrots (more 3 weeks later for extended harvest)
* cauliflower seedlings (start seeds in late Feb. or early March) – need 18″ all around
* radishes (a short row every week for extended harvest)

Frost-free date (expected date of the last frost or the day after?) IF the soil is warm:
* bush beans (sow every 3 weeks for extended harvest)
* pole beans
* bush lima beans
* okra seedlings (plant seeds indoors 2 months earlier) 3′ apart

One week later:
* eggplant seedlings (start indoors 2 months earlier) 3′ apart
* summer squash and zucchine
* winter squash
* sweet corn
* celery seed in a small patch, to be transplanted into rows later
* tomato plants (start seeds indoors 8 weeks earlier)

Two weeks later:
* lima beans
* soybeans
* pepper plants (ground must be warm)
* cucumbers
* black-eyed peas

You can also plant cabbages, chinese cabbage, broccoli, etc. in early July for fall harvest.

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